I am traveling Oct 2-19 in Pakistan and Nepal.  Below is my journal.

Pakistan and Nepal Fall, 2026

Lahore, Pakistan October 2-5

This is my first visit to Pakistan.  My thanks to my friend Molly Mostert who worked on me for several years to visit our churches in this great country.  Pakistan is a country of 260 million souls, which makes it the fifth most populous country in the world.  It is 96% Muslim, with 1+% Hindu and 1+% Christian. Its Muslim population is predominantly Sunni, with small minorities of Shia and Sufi.  The country was created in 1949 with the breakup of the Indian subcontinent when Great Britian gave up rule here. At the time, there was a massive migration of Hindus to India and of Muslims to Pakistan, with around a million deaths in the chaos.  The most common language is Punjabi, with nearly 40% native speakers of the language.  The official language is Urdu (and also English), but it is only the native language of about 10% of the population. The typical income for a worker is somewhere between 100 and 300 dollars per month. It is difficult to imagine surviving on such a low wage, but people manage.

Lahore is a city of 15 million, making it larger than Los Angeles.  It is in the northeast of the country, close to the Punjab region of India.  The dominant language here is Punjabi, but many also speak Urdu.  My flight here includes a 16-hour segment from Dallas to Doha, Quatar.  Needless to say, I arrive a bit tired.   I am met by Shakeel and Punam Bhatti. They lead the church of 260 members here.  I am staying at their house.  For lunch we have nan (a flat bread, common in Pakistan and India) and lentils, and meet several members of the church.

In the evening we travel to the church building for a class on the Book of Daniel for the church leaders.  There are about fifty leaders in attendance.  It is quite hot here, but I am getting used to it.  I learn some interesting things about doing Christianity in this country. First of all, it is basically impossible for them to convert Muslims.  It is not just illegal; if the person is found out, he or she is likely to be killed, as well as the one who converted them.  The only way for a Muslim to become a Christian is to keep it a secret from their family and all their friends.  In the long run, this is virtually impossible.  Also, the Christians are regularly persecuted here by Muslims.  They must have weapons and armed guards at all meetings.  There have been occasional pogroms against Christians in Pakistan.  Also, Christians are extremely limited in their ability to do public university, to have government jobs as well as many other privileges given to Muslims.  The church here has many difficulties.  Add to that, they are very much cut off from other churches, as their relationship with their natural partners, India, is fully prevented by the government, more for political than for religions reasons.  There is a state of nearly constant war between India and Pakistan who should be best allies and friends.

Nevertheless, the meeting tonight is so encouraging.  The church is very warm.  They love to fellowship.  When we leave at 11:00 at night, there are still many hanging around and fellowshipping with one another.  I feel so privileged to be with this group.  Before worship, I am treated to a local Punjabi dance, and, of course, amazing food afterward.  The food here is wonderful—similar to India, but just a little bit less spicy, which is probably a good thing.

On Saturday I had two meetings with leaders from the church.  One was with Babar Khen  and Ambreen Zahwer. They lead a region of 85 in the church, mainly marrieds and teens.  Their questions are primarily about how to lead a marrieds ministry with children and teens.  They also lead “swamp camp,” an annual teen retreat which is really essential for the church here.

In the evening I gave a class on God and science.  There were more than 80 present, including teens, campus and singles.  The group was very enthusiastic and had a lot of questions.  Many of the campus students who have not come for a while attended. Nearly half the group was visitors.  This was a great event.  Many of the questions are ones they have heard from their Muslim friends who are trying to convert them and to tell them that the Bible and Christianity does not make sense.  Apologetics is a great need in this country.

Sunday was church, of course. There were just under 400 in attendance, which, for a church of 260 is very encouraging. I did a class on Acts and Church History, as well as a class for the marrieds after—not exactly my specialty, but it was well received.  By the time we head home, I have been in church for more than seven hours. They really love fellowship in this church.  In the evening I have another meeting with one of the leader couples. I am feeling pretty tired now!

Monday the plan was for me to travel by road to Rawalpindi, but there have been large protests against the government there the last couple of days, so all the roads are closed.  The protests are over the continued detention of Imran Khan, the former cricket star-turned President of Pakistan.  Of all the politicians here, he did the most to oppose the military near-dictatorship, so he, or course, has been put in jail on false charges.  He is also very popular among the people of this freedom-starved country. I am sad that I will not be able to meet with my brothers and sisters in this church of about fifty members.  Instead, we visit the school sponsored by the church here, as well as do some touring of the city of Lahore with Shakeel and Punam.  This includes a visit to the ancient fort of the Mughal emperors,

Peshawar, Pakistan Oct 6-9

Today I travel with Shakeel and Punam Bhatti to Peshawar. We fly through Karachi. Peshawar is a large city, with a population of about 3.5 million.  It is in the Northwest, and is the gateway to Afghanistan. It is a bit slower paced than Lahore.  This is a very religious city, with more fundamentalist Muslims.  Even Christian women wear some sort of veil here because of the harassment they receive if they do not.  The local language is Pashto, which is also spoken in parts of Afghanistan.

The church here has eighty-five members.  They are led by Phinehas and Rehana Rehmat.  They are very strong disciples, which is necessary, given the difficult conditions for the church here, with all of the persecutions.  I am staying in their home. The hospitality is world class in this home.  They live at the end of a maze of very narrow alleys. No car can get close to this place.

Midweek Church in Peshawar

In the evening we meet with the church leaders.  I give a lesson on Daniel to them.  The leaders are so grateful for the teaching.  They have had outside guests only very rarely.  After this, a spontaneous concert breaks out, with the campus group making music and singing.  The leader of this intrepid group plays a traditional, 4-stringed instrument called a Ruhab. The music is amazing. It is encouraging to see the campus group having such a great time.  Also, they put on a demonstration of local dance.  Afterward, of course, we have a feast together with a great variety of local food. What an encouraging evening.

Wednesday included a few meetings with members of the church here who want some counseling. In the evening we travel to the church property. It is out in the countryside—about 20 minutes from where I am staying, in a “Christian” area.  With a membership of eighty-five, there are at least eighty adults at the meeting, plus dozens of children. For a midweek service, this is amazing.  With singing, introductions, ceremonies, a musical performance and my lecture on From Shadow to Reality, the midweek lasts at least three hours, followed by a meal, of course!  What a blessing to be with this devoted group of Christians.

Thursday began with appointments, followed by lunch at a local Pakistani restaurant. In the evening I gave a class on Evidence for Jesus to the teens and campus group. There are nearly thirty at the meeting. It is so encouraging to see so many devoted young Christians here in Peshawar. It give me great hope for the church here. As usual, we are up to 12:00 or 1:00 AM having fellowship with one another.

Karachi, Pakistan Oct 9-12

Friday is a travel day. I am flying from the Northwest to the Southern extreme of Pakistan—to Karachi.  This is the largest city in Pakistan, with a population of more than twenty million. The local language is Sindhi. It is the principal port of Pakistan. I am met by Rasheen and Nosheen Masih. They lead the group here.  The church is quite small, with just over twenty members. In the evening, I meet may of the children, as well as spending time with the teen group, which includes six. The ministry is very tough here, as is life itself. There is no running water in this city because the government cut it off.  Instead, they sell fresh water at exorbitant prices. To this I say, “no comment.”

On Saturday, I get a chance to exercise in a local park. In the evening I give a lesson for the marrieds in the church.  There are fifteen in attendance. In this Muslim country there seems to be a complete vacuum of teaching on successful marriage, so the need is there. After we have great fellowship over nan and chicken curry.

Church in Karachi

Sunday, of course is church.  There are a bit more than sixty in attendance, with almost forty adults and a bit more than twenty children.  Very impressive for a church with just over twenty members.  The children remain in service the entire time. I give a lesson on From Shadow to Realitly, which is well-received. After worship we share biryani, a very spicy dish with rice and chicken. Then I teach a class on Who Is Jesus for the teen group. I am very surprised to see fifteen teens in such a small church. Several are visitors. So encouraging. Afterward, I have a discussion with the husband of one of the sisters who is an atheist.  Later, we had a wonderful meal at a nice restaurant with the leadership group. I will really miss this church. Please consider visiting our fellow disciples in Lahore, Rawalpindi, Peshawar or Karachi.

Kathmandu, Nepal 10/12-19

My itinerary to Katmandu is crazy. To go Northeast, first I travel nearly one thousand miles West, to Sharjah in the UAE.  Then nearly two thousand miles East to Katmadu. Why?  because of the enmity between Pakistan and India. No Pakistani-originated flight is allowed to fly over India. India is a country of thirty million inhabitants, with its capital, Kathmandu having a population of three million. The country is about 80% Muslim, 8% Buddhist, 6% Muslim and 2% Christian, as well as indigenous languages. This is a very diverse country of many languages, with Nepali as the official language. It is also a country of great mountains, including, of course Anapurna and Everest. We pass through high mountains to get to the Kathmandu valley on the way in. Unlike Pakistan, there are many tourists here, and the country feels more inviting.

I am met by Dahal, who, with his wife Punam, leads the church here. They have a wonderful family. The church here has just over one hundred members. There are also three smaller churches in the country, for a total of about two hundred members here.  On Tuesday I have two appointments—Bible studies with a college student named Vinay and with an older gentleman who is an English teacher. After this, we have great fellowship and wonderful talks with Dahal and Punam’s family. Tomorrow is a travel day to Biratnagar.

Biratnagar, Nepal 10/14-1

On Wednesday I travel by air to the Eastern city of Biratnagar. The scenery is absolutely spectacular. I see Mt. Everest off in the distance—the most striking mountain I have ever seen, and, closer, very steep mountain-sides with rice terraces and homes very far from the nearest road. I have never seen anything like that. Coming into Biratnagar, we pass over a huge river, landing in this, the second largest city in Nepal, with one million inhabitants. This is a very Hindu city, being just thirty minutes from India.

Mt Everest

I am visiting a church of thirty members here in Biratnagar. I am met by Sukuram Gurung, who, with his wife, leads the church here. I have a Bible study with a student who has now decided to be baptized. He is very concerned his family will not accept him, and that he will be kicked out of the church he grew up in, but he decides to obey God. In the evening, I teach on the question of pain and suffering, which seems particularly appropriate here. A group from a village fifteen kilometers away come to the meeting, but they need to spend the night at Sukuram’s house because it is too late for them to travel home. I meet several college students as well.

On Thursday we travel to the countryside to visit with the members of the church from the rural areas. This is a fascinating experience for me. These people live very simple lives, yet they have great faith. Nearly everything they eat they grow themselves. I am treated to amazing hospitality in their humble homes. The main crop, of course, is rice, but also cows, pigs, chickens, and, surprisingly, pigeons. Christianity is a definite minority here, and conversion can be challenging. I leave in the evening to return to Katmandu with a heart refreshed by these amazing disciples.

Katmadu Oct 15-19

I am picked up by Rahal. We have coffee and spend time sharing our vision for the churches here in Nepal. His heart for the mission is amazing. His family has moved several times to help support church plantings, and they have given up opportunities to have a much “better” life for the sake of Jesus. This is so encouraging.

On Friday I have coffee and lunch with the staff of the church here, as well as Suhan and Saku, the couple who lead a small church planting in the city of Chitwan. Thy planted this church 2-1/2 years ago and have a seven-month old child.    Because my wife Jan and I also led a church planting recently, we have much to talk about.  In the evening I speak on God and Science to the campus and singles, with about 30 in attendance. The questions are really great. After, dinner with six of the campus guys at a local restaurant. This is a great group of faithful disciples.

Church in Katmandu

For practical reasons, worship is on Saturday here in Nepal. There are about 110 at church, with some really good singing and great fellowship. I speak on the role of the Holy Spirit. After, I get with a couple for lunch and sharing our lives.

Sunday is a day off. I climbed a mountain with Dahal and Sam. They say this is not a mountain—only a hill, but to me it is a mountain. The climb is very steep, but the view from the top of the Himalaya range is absolutely spectacular. After, we have lunch at Sam’s house, served by his mom and grandmother. The usual rice, greens and chicken are served, but this time, red beans, not dal. I love the simple food here.

The Himalaya Mountains

Monday, after an encouraging talk with Dahal and Punam, in which we share our vision for the church here, in India and Pakistan. One concern is that, when the young get a strong education, which the church is doing so well at, many if not most of the youth decide to emigrate to places where they can earn a decent living.  We also talk about vision to plant new churches in Nepal. I am very encouraged by the faith of the disciples here in Nepal. Next, I am off to the airport for a flight through Doha, Quatar, home.

John Oakes 10/20/26